What Do the Numbers on Binoculars Mean for Users?

Take your binoculars and examine it. You’ll see numbers coming up into your notice. Ask your best pal who might be an ardent binocular user anything about the devices. The most frequent words you would hear from him/her are likely to be a collection of numbers, both familiar and vague. What do the numbers on binoculars mean? That’s a BIG question. But worry not! Today, I’m going to make the numbers easy, intelligible, and practicable.

So, what do the numbers on binoculars mean?

As I told binocular numbers are the indications that make a particular unit more attractive, noteworthy, and useful than others. Here’s an example.

You will always find a series name with two numbers, such as 10×50, 10×42, 8×42, or 8×25. These numbers relay the magnification, and the objective lens size respectively.

The first number in the sequence usually indicates how much the binocular will magnify the target for you. If 10 is the first number, your unit magnifies an object 10 times its original size. On the other hand, the second number refers to the diameter of the lens in millimeters. The lens size is critical as it indicates how much light the lens may assemble in a given situation.

Available numbers on binoculars

In this article, I’ll discuss the following numbers.

All these properties bear numeric significance for hunters, birdwatchers, surveillance professionals, foresters, archers, and everyone who use binoculars.

Magnification

It is needless to say that the process of enlarging the apparent size of an object is known to us as magnification. However, the process amplifies the apparent size, not the physical size. The ocular lenses usually carry out the magnification process of the binoculars. When you use a binocular, ocular lens are the closest to the eyes.

You already know that the first number in the designation refers to the intensity of the magnification. For example, if you got numbers like 10×40 or, 8×42; that means the object you want to see through binocular will appear 10 or 8 times closer as opposed to the naked eye.

When you see multiple numbers before the ‘x’ sign, such as 12-36×70, you have got a zoom binocular. The magnification of your binocular is variable from the first number to the second number.

For the 12-36×70, you can see the object 12x to 36x bigger by just moving the zoom lever. Some binoculars may also show the numbers like 25/40×100. The sign ‘/’ between the first two numbers mean this is not a zoom binocular.

However, it can use several fixed-power eyepieces to obtain the different levels of magnification. The 25/40×100 binocular has eyepieces on rotating turrets. It gives you the opportunity to switch back and forth between 25x and 40x magnification.

Understanding the right magnification settings will help you choose the compact, high-end binoculars.

Field of View

This specific aspect is expressed using either degrees or meters visible at a 1000m range. Deer hunters long for a wide field of view, so they get a better chance to spot the target. Binoculars with a narrow field of view requires the user to pan the device around more, an action that would cost the hunter the spotting of the animal. So, a proper balance between field of view and magnification is all you want.

Aperture (Lens Size)

The second number after the ‘x’ sign refers to the size of the objective lenses’ diameter in millimeters. For the lens, size does matter. The larger lenses will admit more lights for clear viewing. The terms aperture indicates ‘opening of the lens.’

To measure the lens aperture size, we use the term ‘f-stops.’ Moving to start with one f-stop and then onto the next will double or separate into equal parts the opening of the objective lens. At the point when the lens measure is multiplied, multiple times the measure of light will enter the binoculars.

The size of the objective lenses also influences the physical size of a couple of binoculars. The large objective lenses will make the casing of the binoculars larger. However, makers use different materials for the casing, but the weight of the binoculars will definitely increase with the aperture number. If you’re using a handheld binocular, consider the following points.

Exit Pupil Size

Divide the aperture by the magnification, and you will get the exit pupil. The number will be approximately between 4 and 8. Exit pupil is usually the diameter of the shaft of light coming to your eyes from the binocular eyepieces. The exit pupil refers that how well the binocular will perform in a low light condition.

The ideal exit pupil size of your binocular has to be equal or slightly smaller than the pupil of your eyes. Because of this, the binocular will deliver the maximum amount of light and bring the brightest images for its aperture. The more extensive the shaft of light, the more splendid the picture will be on the grounds that the light is hitting a greater amount of our retina.

A binocular that has too high amplification for its objective size usually delivers a darker view because the smaller shaft of light is achieving a little measure of the retina. Keep the following information in mind.

Eye Relief

Eye relief or the ‘exit pupil distance’ is the distance that your eyes have to be from the ocular lenses. It will ensure the optimum performance of the binocular. It will also indicate the standard distance of holding the binoculars from your eyes to get a clear view of the entire apparent view.

Prism Systems

All the binoculars have built-in prism systems that serve as the mirror. This mirror reflects the incoming light between the widely spaced objectives and the narrowly spaced eyepieces. They also invert the image that the objective lenses project. Prisms do it in a right-side-up position, but not in the reversed left to right view.

Prisms in a binocular are of two kinds. There are roof prisms and Porro prisms. Without going in the technical detail, I can only say that roof prism binoculars are good for bird watching. However, they are a bit poor performer for the astronomical uses.

Two types of glasses are used to make prisms. They are BK-7 borosilicate flint glass and BaK-4 barium crown glass. BaK-4 usually has a higher refractive index. It also gives brighter and well-defined images. That’s why users prefer BaK-4 over the standard BK-7. Read the points below to check the BK-7 or BaK-4 prism on your own, you can do the following.

Coatings explained

Likely the essential factor in the quality of binoculars is the coating procedure. This inconspicuous, inward component decides the measure of light that enters the objective lenses. Proper coating limits the amount of light that is misled by being reflected far from the binocular.

The procedure of compelling coating has been improved. However, it is moderate, repetitive, and exorbitant to the producer. Setting aside the opportunity to comprehend the quality of coating will enable you to get the best binocular for your cash. We should take a look at the varieties in the coating that decide the quality of various binoculars.

At least eight lenses are in a couple of binoculars. A portion of these is reinforced together. For those that are not, there is an air-to-lens obstruction that the light should cross to infiltrate the lens and enter the binoculars. A typical binocular currently has around 20 such hindrances. So, it is obvious why coatings are essential to satisfactory light infiltration.

Different types of coatings

One interesting thing to note! After talking to countless people (from our community of outdoorsmen), I observed that some hold this notion about binoculars:

“Binoculars numbers are all about numbers.”

Technically yes! But, practically, they’re more than mere digits, and the numbers are actually indicative of the overall potentiality of a unit.